It’s lonely standing up to the might of the State. So Brigitte Ruthman was understandably buoyed today by a letter of sharp protest sent today by the Massachusetts chapter of the Northeast Organic Farming Association to the state’s agriculture commissioner, Scott Soares.

The letter takes the Massachusetts Department of Agricultural Resources to task on the cease-and-desist sent to Ruthman last week over her milking of one cow for three herdshare members. NOFA-MA challenges MDAR on the legality of herdshares, and calls on the agency to reverse itself. It says NOFA-MA is “opposed to any actions taken against herdshare operations. The law simply does not support the actions MDAR has taken. A herdshare arrangement, as Ms. Ruthman has constructed hers, is a private contract between a farmer and shareholders that allows for private, shared ownership of a dairy animal or herd of dairy animals. Milk produced by those animals belongs to the shareholders not via a commercial transaction, but by right of ownership. There are no laws in Massachusetts, or anywhere else, that prevent someone from drinking milk from their own animal.”

It added: “Efforts to prevent herdshares from operating represents a troubling breach of individuals’ rights and threatens the survival of dairy farms in Massachusetts. We urge MDAR to reconsider the action against Ms. Ruthman’s farm and take steps instead to assist small dairies like hers in their efforts to enable those who wish to consume safe, clean, healthy raw milk to come together to produce it.”

NOFA-MA has been involved in supporting raw dairies in Massachusetts for narly a decade now, so it has clout not only with MDAR, as I noted previously, but with dairy farmers. The NOFA-MA move is also welcome as a first step toward hopefully healing divisions among supporters of raw milk in Massachusetts. MDAR officials likely enjoyed the arguments that have been going on here over the last few days.

It’s tough when like-minded people go at each other, as Tricia Smith suggests in her comments following my previous post, but that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily bad. Israeli politicians debating in the parliament call each other cowards and traitors, and those are sometimes the nicer things they say. Yet when the nation is under attack, they come together. I think as well about the old Oakland Athletics baseball teams of the 1970s–they would brawl among themselves, and yet won several world championships during those years.

The key to countering the MDAR assault is not only united resistance, but keeping in mind the big picture. MDAR wants people to be confused about the regulations so that, depending on its mood and the political pressures of the time, it can interpret the regs as it wants. It’s important to remember that the campaign against raw milk has been going on for 100 years, and gradually the government has gotten its way.

So for a time, this state or that one may have a peaceful situation. Massachusetts had a peaceful situation since the early 1990s, when the current permitting system for raw dairies was instituted. But then, at the beginning of this year, the Massachusetts Department of Public Health, likely at the urging of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, pressured the MDAR to crack down on raw milk distribution. Quick as a wink, MDAR went after four buying clubs. Emboldened by that success and dissension among raw milk proponents, MDAR moved on to the Ruthman herdshare last week.

MDAR will keep moving forward in its assault until enough people stand up and, very loudly, say, No More.

Speaking of the assault, some people dislike me using warfare terminology to describe what’s going on. Bill Marler, the food poisoning lawyer, put out a Tweet on Saturday directed to me: “Your use of language is borderline inciting violence. You should be ashamed of yourself. This is not a WAR.”

When I answered that the violent behavior was all coming from his side, he responded, “Change the law, work within the system. You are provoking violence for what, the right to drink raw milk? 

Raw milk remains a highly volatile subject, not only for those who want it, but for those like Marler who want to be rid of it. They fail to appreciate that it’s not just about raw milk, but about free access to the foods of our choice. I don’t like being involved in a war, especially when the enemy has huge advantages in the form of  endless money to finance all aspects of its campaign–the propaganda machine to influence what the media write, the research funds to incentivize budget-starved states, and an army of regulators to do its bidding. No, I’m not advocating violence to stop the onslaught. Just people power.
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A couple weeks ago I came across an inviting spot in Vermont known as Billings Farm and Museum, on the outskirts of the charming town of Woodstock.

It’s a working farm that’s been turned into a museum. There are all kinds of demonstrations of cows being milked and fed and calves being cared for and sheep being sheared. I didn’t have the time or inclination to take the tour, and it wasn’t just about the $12 admission fee. Maybe I’ve just been writing too much about confrontation over farm and food rights, but there was something sad to me about a farm museum.

I wound up getting into a discussion with a couple of retired Vermont farm guys who act as tour guides, which turned into a debate about raw milk. (Just can’t get away from it!) I didn’t say much about what I do, preferring to let them talk. One of the guides was a big advocate of locally-grown foods, proud of how he goes to the Woodstock farmers market each week to buy most of his family’s food. The other man wondered, with animosity in his voice, why farmers producing raw milk charge $7 or $8 a gallon. I explained that one of the reasons we’re at the stage of having to show farming life via museums is because dairy farmers have been unable to make a living in the conventional system…and that raw milk provides economic hope to dairy farmers.  He raised his eyebrows a bit, impressed this one visitor knew a little something about the dairy business, but who knows if I changed a mind.

Not surprisingly, our government would prefer that museums are the closest we get to familiarizing ourselves with how our food is produced. The government pushes us away from knowing too much about factory food producers, as I learned when I researched new regulations limiting public access to egg farms that just went into effect, for an article on Grist. The dubious excuse of food safety is being used to keep people out of our factory egg producers–probably a relief for many of the producers.

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Speaking of seeing real working farms, there are still a few spots open for a coveted tour of Polyface Farm in Virginia by none other than the man himself, Joel Salatin. He doesn’t do many tours any more, since he’s become a film star in the documentaries, Food Inc. and Fresh! and gets invited to speak around the country. But he’s doing one on September 11, as part of a fundraiser for the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund. I’ll be there, and I hope some of you will, as well.