Roy Costa, food safety consultantThe Washington rally in support of Amish farmer Dan Allgyer has rekindled media interest in raw milk. There were well over a dozen media reports on the rally, and more articles and radio-television discussions about raw milk are in the offing.

But in addition, there has been an uptick in discussion among professional food safety types. These are the public health and agriculture department professionals who generally don’t like to have their discussions in any kind of public arena. But they absolutely took notice of what went on in Washington on Monday.

What really stuck in their craw was a statement by Sally Fallon, head of the Weston A. Price Foundation, in her rally speech that raw milk is a “magic food.” Food safety lawyer Bill Marler had fun with that: “‘Magic food,’ Really? Sally, you need to ‘lawyer-up.’ The next family who relies on your words, and the Foundation’s website, and their kid becomes ill after drinking raw milk, you will have a problem.”

Marler’s observation on Sally Fallon led to further discussion among several food safety professionals on a listserve known as Foodsafe, which came my way via Google Alert. The most intriguing observations came from Roy Costa, a food safety consultant and expert witness in court suits against food producers. He has the professional title of “Registered Sanitarian”, which is a public health designation for those specializing in environmental health.

He made the observation that “raw milk is the most complicated unresolved issue in public health today.” Lots of people would agree with him there.

But when you get into specifics, you discover just how wide the gulf really is. I don’t mean to single Costa out, since I sense his view isn’t that different from many of his colleagues–he just happened to be open about his rationale in a semi-public forum. Here are some of the reasons he identified for why raw milk safety is unresolved:

* There is “no validated method of producing clean raw milk…” Why is that? It wouldn’t be difficult to find a half dozen or more being used by dairy farmers around the country producing top quality safe milk, except the opponents haven’t wanted to explore the options, presumably for fear some might “work.”

* I almost hate to provide his idea about what could be “a validated method.” He says: “There needs to be a very stringent sanitary production method to keep feces out of raw milk. One would have to physically isolate the cow’s vital parts and create a sterile field during milking, and then 3-A standards need development for processing. No one is talking like this. It sounds funny, but this might be achievable with some experimentation and innovation.” Some kind of special cow diaper kit perhaps? Yes, this is a problem area.

* He suggested raw milk advocates are beyond reasonable discussion because they “believe (pathogens) are good for you–it makes us healthy…” Yes, some believe that, just as some in Costa’s line of work believe most food should be irradiated, but it’s far from a universal view.

* He argued that for raw milk advocates, “it’s all about politics and economics, not public health…” Once again, a blanket statement that doesn’t include everyone.

* Addressing the economic incentive matter, he pointed out the very real problem conventional dairies have: “I have been arguing for addressing the economic incentive that drives dairy farmers in this direction [producing raw milk]. The big CO-OP dairies have punished the small dairy. It now takes over 200 head to break even, 400 head to make a small income. Economies of scale have pushed the independent dairy farmer to the brink. We need a new economic model for sure, but raw milk is just not acceptable as a commodity sitting on the shelf at Publix or Wal-Mart.”

I’m not sure who’s arguing for putting raw milk on the shelf at Publix or Wal-Mart–in the Allyer case we’re talking about distributing it from private homes to dues-paying club members. And how long are dairy farmers supposed to wait for “a new economic model”? Each day, some number go out of business–nearly 90% have fallen by the wayside since 1970–so the clock has been ticking for a good while now.

It’s almost as if people like Costa are living on a different planet than those of us seeking out raw milk and other nutrient-dense food. I like to be optimistic in seeing an eventual accommodation on raw milk and other related food safety matters. Clearly, there’s a long road to walk toward any kind of accommodation on this matter, and the longer it is put off, the more difficult that road becomes.