David Lynch, president of the Raw Milk Association of Colorado, speaks to attendees at its annual meeting on Saturday. The stories of regulator and legislator resistance to food rights continue unabated.

The latest sad tale comes out of Wyoming, where a state Senate committee late last week tabled the proposed Food Freedom Act that had passed the House by a comfortable margin. The defeat occurred even after proponents reportedly agreed to remove raw milk and meat from inclusion among the foods that could be sold directly to consumers at farmers markets and roadside stands, exempt from licensing requirements.

Seems as if they feel they can’t trust small farms to operate outside the regulator grip of stiff licensing controls. Or else, the food lobby feels threatened by a loss of business. (And to the argument that regulators are trying to treat everyone equally, remember that small businesses have long received all sorts of exemptions from environmental and worker safety regulations, and preferences in obtaining U.S. government and state contracts.)

Of course, the regulators save their harshest wrath for producers of raw milk. WI Raw Milk Consumer says it well in a comment following my previous post regarding the ongoing crackdown on raw dairies in that state: “Should other farms be punished for the unproven transgression of one farm? If Chinese Restaurant A gets someone sick, does that mean that Chinese Restaurant B, C, D, and E should be shut down and forced to provide extensive documentation of their activities and practices as well?”

It seems difficult to conceive in the current ongoing harassment of raw dairy producers that there is a place where all is peaceful on the raw dairy front. Yet such is the case in Colorado.

I attended the annual meeting Saturday of the Raw Milk Association of Colorado, and also gave a talk that traced the state and federal crackdown on raw milk over the last four years across the U.S., and how it relates to proposed federal food safety legislation. Afterwards, a number of Colorado farmers and consumers came up to me and said they never realized the extent of government harassment that’s been going on around the country. “It’s a scary situation,” one attendee told me.

But in Colorado, legislation enacted four years ago that allows distribution of raw milk via herdshare arrangements seems to be working well. So well, in fact, that the association agreed at its meeting Saturday to push for two big adjustments in the existing law: broadening of the legislation to allow distribution of raw dairy products like yogurt, butter, and cream, in addition to milk; and to allow for direct delivery to herdshare members.

There has been one problem in the otherwise serene Colorado situation: an outbreak of campylobacter last spring that the Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment tied to the raw dairy owned by Scott Freeman. He was very cooperative with the authorities, though he says now he disagrees with their conclusion that his dairy was the source of the campylobacter outbreak that, according to the agency, affected 81 individuals. While some were raw dairy drinkers, he now contends that there was a widespread outbreak of gastrointestinal illness in his area of Colorado around the same time, which included non-raw-milk drinkers, and which regulators didn’t investigate.

But that incident seems not to have slowed growth in raw milk demand in Colorado. Scott Freeman says his dairy lost nine of 160 herdshare owners in the days immediately following the campylobacter outbreak, but has since rebounded and now has 200 members. The Raw Milk Association of Colorado has similarly experienced significant growth: its membership has increased from just a few dairies to 54 over the last four years.

David Lynch, a raw dairy owner and the organization’s president, attributes the state’s success to self policing. RMAC oversees a set of standards that cover regular pathogen and other testing of milk, along with labeling.

“We’re non-confrontational here,” he told me. “We don’t want to be perceived as a radical organization.” As the organization says on its web site: “Producing the safe, raw milk that our members demand requires a rigorous discipline of cleanliness, proper handling of all milk and animal care focused on the long term health of our dairy animals.” RMAC monitors its members to ensure their compliance with specific procedures.

The RMAC’s success with self policing reinforces my sense that the self-policing concept could well be extended to other states. Get the ag and public health regulators out of the business of interfering with raw milk production, and let dairy owners organize their own oversight. We know that their agenda isn’t about safety, but about control. In the end, though, it will be up to legislators to become engaged via legislation that limits the regulators–the legislators are,  in the final analysis, the regulators’ bosses.

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Many thanks to Blair McMorran and her husband, Jim, for hosting me this past weekend for the RMAC meeting. I very much appreciated kindness, since they were in the midst of a major juggling act, preparing for the RMAC annual session (which was a big success). 

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